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Hincot Ltd. registered in England and Wales Co. reg. no. 483 8381 VAT reg. no. 811 3624 64

Interceptor 650

Ah - G994PNH - where are you now - There follows a blow by blow account of the long struggle to get this car up together. This was originally written on a Psion 5 on successive evenings down the pub and published using the Serif Webplus service that is now discontinued so is now reproduced as a text file

In the last episode of the saga the cruise control actuator was reconnected to the throttle so, imagination fired, attention was focussed on the controlling end. Mindful of the brake switch fault previously reported the relevant bits of wiring diagram were downloaded from Alldata and studied. The V8 has the normal brake light switch that operates the brake lights but also an extra switch that connects the cruise control and one of the gearbox controller connections to earth via the bulb filaments until the brake is depressed. This was adjusted to give a more reliable contact. Attention was then turned to the column switch wiring after an hour long attempt to find the cruise control module - for anybody that's interested it is mounted in front of and above the glove compartment up behind the dash in such a way that it cannot be removed. Anyway it soon became apparent that no volts were getting to the column switch.

The said volts come from a particular fuse via a distinctively coloured wire which had 12 volts at the fuse and nought volts at the column switch. I did try to trace the wire but gave up after another fruitless hour. On closer inspection the same volts were also supposed to be on another gearbox controller input but weren't there either. Same coloured wire. Sod it I thought - what can happen apart from a destroyed gearbox controller - I'll link it out. No fireworks ensued so I put it all back together, took it for a test and, praise be, the cruise control worked!

The bad news was that the graunching and ratchetting now happened all the time. At this point SJM (thanks again Scott!) suggested that applying the brakes would disable the diff lock and, indeed, if the brake was lightly depressed in a tight turn the ratchetting stopped. Obviously one of the switch functions ..  I subsequently found the same information in the owners handbook.   Should have R'd the FM!

 It is at this point in the story that an  explanation of the UFO brakes is required. Audi refers to these as "internal caliper" brakes and explains that having the disk mounted at its circumference on a steel basket thing with the caliper working from the inside of the disk increases both swept area and working radius thus increasing the possible braking effect by a considerable amount. The V8 and the S6 were fitted with these devices.  Subsequent models were fitted with 16" wheels which  made the UFO design unnecessary. Unfortunately it is not possible to pop round to your local motor factors for cheaper brake rotors. Happily, Audi will supply new rotors for the sum of £125 or so each plus VAT (actually not a bad price considering their design) and you do see part worn ones on Ebay.

Why UFO? a look at the rotor will provide the answer.

One of the things that the Audi owner has to do from time to time is to replace the panel lights. This is generally acheived after removing the intrument panel with varying degrees of difficulty depending on the model. Being only familiar with the larger models I can say that the A6 was easiest because the wheel tilt was adjustable and the 100/200 harder because the steering wheel has to be removed. The V8 is not bad except that all the bayonet  fittings on the left hand warning lights are broken and so have to be re taped into position on reassembly. At least GSF and Euro Car Parts keep cheap lamps these days - at one time they were £8.00 each from Audi! (you need about 15 for the V8 so that would be £120 thanks very much).

These days the bulbs can be fitted for a much more reasonable £7.00 or so. Whilst doing the bulb bit to the V8 I thought that the calibrated dials on the fuel and temp gauges from the spare instrument panel would look better than the plain ones fitted. Fine, I'll just switch the gauges, I thought but finding that the readings on the gauges were completely different and having no wish to find out why I ended up just switching the dial faces. I still had the fuel gauge reading slightly wrong due to the gauge not quite meshing with its adjuster properly on reassembly.

Part Five

Part Six